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Pins and needles in toes and fingers - Page 2

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MadGutts	05 May 17:02
Joined: 31 Mar 2010 Posts: 15 Bike: My Profile	Hi guys, I have been cycling for years (on and off) but recently got a new bike and changed the pedals for SPD and got some Shimano shoes and fitted the cleats in the midway point under the ball off my foot... I have had these for a few months and have steadly gone for longer and longer rides. So after about 12 miles i start getting pins and needles in my toes and either need to de-clip and ride on my toes or jump of and stand on my toes... Any ideas why this is happening? are my cleats too far back? or is it because i have cleats, im not using my toes to pedal now? And also, my fingers start going numb or getting pins and needles too - which i have put down to the gloves as i never had this with my winter gloves - although I wasn't cycling as far as i do now!
My Latest Route: Apr 2010 Witney to Ferryman Inn, Bablock Hythe

MadGutts

05 May 17:02

Joined: 31 Mar 2010

Posts: 15

Bike:

My Profile

Hi guys,

I have been cycling for years (on and off) but recently got a new bike and changed the pedals for SPD and got some Shimano shoes and fitted the cleats in the midway point under the ball off my foot... I have had these for a few months and have steadly gone for longer and longer rides. So after about 12 miles i start getting pins and needles in my toes and either need to de-clip and ride on my toes or jump of and stand on my toes...

Any ideas why this is happening? are my cleats too far back? or is it because i have cleats, im not using my toes to pedal now?

And also, my fingers start going numb or getting pins and needles too - which i have put down to the gloves as i never had this with my winter gloves - although I wasn't cycling as far as i do now!

My Latest Route: Apr 2010 Witney to Ferryman Inn, Bablock Hythe

cyclekids2school	03 Oct 03:13
Joined: 03 Oct 2011 Posts: 1 Bike:	My husband and I biked to Peterborough from March via the NCR63 on the 1st October and I have had numbness in my right hand 4th finger and little finger ever since. I have a career in noise and vibration and I am now concerned this is like vibration white finger possibly caused by vibration between the road and the bike and getting into my hands as I have a cheapish bike and there is no form of damping in the frame like shock absorbers etc and my hand grips are quite rigid? Im thinking i need some foam pipe insulation around my hand grips now but that wouldnt look great.. My husband wasnt affected at all. This was our first decent bike trip out. Im hoping the pins and needles go away soon.

cyclekids2school

03 Oct 03:13

Joined: 03 Oct 2011

Posts: 1

Bike:

My husband and I biked to Peterborough from March via the NCR63 on the 1st October and I have had numbness in my right hand 4th finger and little finger ever since.
I have a career in noise and vibration and I am now concerned this is like vibration white finger possibly caused by vibration between the road and the bike and getting into my hands as I have a cheapish bike and there is no form of damping in the frame like shock absorbers etc and my hand grips are quite rigid?

Im thinking i need some foam pipe insulation around my hand grips now but that wouldnt look great..

My husband wasnt affected at all.

This was our first decent bike trip out.

Im hoping the pins and needles go away soon.

BusterG	03 Oct 06:16
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 372 Bike: My Profile	Good luck Cyclekids2school, I found that niceley padded gloves and spongy bar tape cured my numbness on my cheapie road bike. If that doesnt do it for you try ergo grips with barends. it is all about relieving the presure on the hands when in contact with the bar. A lot of bike shop staff are knowlegeable and can suggest a solution depending on your symptoms. They may start by suggesting a new top of the range bike by tell to give over and they usually do. Congrats on your ride BTW. Have fun. Buster.
My Latest Route: Oct 2013 Liss

BusterG

03 Oct 06:16

Joined: 25 Feb 2010

Posts: 372

Bike:

My Profile

Good luck Cyclekids2school,
I found that niceley padded gloves and spongy bar tape cured my numbness on my cheapie road bike.
If that doesnt do it for you try ergo grips with barends. it is all about relieving the presure on the hands when in contact with the bar.
A lot of bike shop staff are knowlegeable and can suggest a solution depending on your symptoms. They may start by suggesting a new top of the range bike by tell to give over and they usually do.

Congrats on your ride BTW.
Have fun.
Buster.

My Latest Route: Oct 2013 Liss

pathfinder2tri	03 Oct 06:37
Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Posts: 19 Bike: My Profile	Hi Madgutts, The first thing I would look at is the location of your cleats, a rule of thumb to start with is place a strip of masking tape along the inside edge of your shoes, then mark where the "bulge" of your big toe is located in the shoe, do this on both shoes. Next continue the mark to the underside of the shoe, this will give you a close start point to place your cleat. Next I would look at saddle position and height, height roughly should be :when one leg is straight down on the peddle the knee should have a slight bend, when you drop your heel so that the foot is level, the leg should be almost straight up and down. Is the saddle to far back oe forward? Place yur finger tips on the centre of your bikes headset/stearing column, and adjust the saddles lateral movement so the nose of the saddle touches your elbow, again this is a good starting point. Finally, are your shoes too tight? If the shoes are too tight they tend to cramp the nerves that support the metatarssals in the foot, this will cause numbness, oins and needles ans a sensation of hotness, wider fitting shoes or just loosenning the straps help. Hope this has been of some use to you. Pathfinder2tri
My Latest Route: Oct 2012 Faversham, Chillham, Molash Return

pathfinder2tri

03 Oct 06:37

Joined: 29 Sep 2011

Posts: 19

Bike:

My Profile

Hi Madgutts,

The first thing I would look at is the location of your cleats, a rule of thumb to start with is place a strip of masking tape along the inside edge of your shoes, then mark where the "bulge" of your big toe is located in the shoe, do this on both shoes. Next continue the mark to the underside of the shoe, this will give you a close start point to place your cleat.

Next I would look at saddle position and height, height roughly should be :when one leg is straight down on the peddle the knee should have a slight bend, when you drop your heel so that the foot is level, the leg should be almost straight up and down.

Is the saddle to far back oe forward? Place yur finger tips on the centre of your bikes headset/stearing column, and adjust the saddles lateral movement so the nose of the saddle touches your elbow, again this is a good starting point.

Finally, are your shoes too tight? If the shoes are too tight they tend to cramp the nerves that support the metatarssals in the foot, this will cause numbness, oins and needles ans a sensation of hotness, wider fitting shoes or just loosenning the straps help.

Hope this has been of some use to you.

Pathfinder2tri

My Latest Route: Oct 2012 Faversham, Chillham, Molash Return

fairweathercyclist	03 Oct 09:21
Joined: 02 Jun 2009 Posts: 3 Bike: My Profile	My advice to all having problems is go to an expert for a proper bike fit. I've cycled for years thinking all I had to do was set the saddle height and find a comfortable height for the bars. I had two bikes adjusted for me on Friday last and they're completely different now. Bars higher and seat much further forward than I have ever had them, but (BIG BUT) far more comfortable. I ride about thirty miles at a go normally, now I get home and could go round again. No niggly aches and pains, I also ride faster and find the going easier. It will cost you, my two bike fit was Â£110 plus some spares, but for me worth very penny.
My Latest Route: Jul 2010 Broughton to Messingham Loop

fairweathercyclist

03 Oct 09:21

Joined: 02 Jun 2009

Posts: 3

Bike:

My Profile

My advice to all having problems is go to an expert for a proper bike fit. I've cycled for years thinking all I had to do was set the saddle height and find a comfortable height for the bars. I had two bikes adjusted for me on Friday last and they're completely different now. Bars higher and seat much further forward than I have ever had them, but (BIG BUT) far more comfortable. I ride about thirty miles at a go normally, now I get home and could go round again. No niggly aches and pains, I also ride faster and find the going easier. It will cost you, my two bike fit was Â£110 plus some spares, but for me worth very penny.

My Latest Route: Jul 2010 Broughton to Messingham Loop

spanish pirate	03 Oct 12:18
Joined: 02 Oct 2011 Posts: 6 Bike: My Profile	Had the same problem but it was old spd's transfered to a new bike. Changed saddle position and was ok on a 50 miler i did this weekend. You may also need to experiment with cleat position on your shoes and not have the velcro straps to tight. Hope this helps.
My Latest Route: Oct 2011 Wandsworth Loop

stig_thedump	09 Oct 11:56
Joined: 09 Oct 2011 Posts: 2 Bike:	Hello there, Reading through all the posts above I have a couple of questions....... What bike are you riding ? Road, mountain, Hybrid What is the terrain like ? whats your frame material? what are your tyres like ? Reason for asking 3 riders doing same 600 mile route from cardiff to edinburgh, 3 road bikes, 2full carbon 1 aluminium, 3 different tyre pressures 3 different riding styles, 1 rider full carbon had above vibration white finger symtoms half way, his riding position was wrong which made him grip the bars to tight and the high tyre pressure on varying tar mac, (that type where you can see the aggregate on the surface) if you went over it in the car you hear the rumble... we adjusted his seat only half an inch and he was ok for the other 300 mile no problems. the other aluminium bike same as above but he changed the front whhel after a spill for a slightly wider tyre (less air pressure) he was ok with less vibration. I myself on the other full carbon hard tyre pressure, had no problems comfortable riding position (leaning slightly forward) loose but firm grip on bars (changing hand position regular top, bottom top of levers etc) and not at full leg stretch when peddling. also when coasting down hills I still spun the pedals although slowly to keep legs moving, and when hill climbing alternate in and out of the saddle. also you may find a difference if you adjust cleats or tension mine SPDSL have a 6 degree float whe as the other riders cleats were fixed SPD's sorry for the epic ramble, but someone may find some of the content usefull basically dont have the seat to high, and dont grip the bars too tight for too long in the same position.

stig_thedump

09 Oct 11:56

Joined: 09 Oct 2011

Posts: 2

Bike:

Hello there,

Reading through all the posts above I have a couple of questions.......

What bike are you riding ? Road, mountain, Hybrid

What is the terrain like ?

whats your frame material?

what are your tyres like ?

Reason for asking 3 riders doing same 600 mile route from cardiff to edinburgh,

3 road bikes, 2full carbon 1 aluminium, 3 different tyre pressures 3 different riding styles, 1 rider full carbon had above vibration white finger symtoms half way, his riding position was wrong which made him grip the bars to tight and the high tyre pressure on varying tar mac, (that type where you can see the aggregate on the surface) if you went over it in the car you hear the rumble... we adjusted his seat only half an inch and he was ok for the other 300 mile no problems.
the other aluminium bike same as above but he changed the front whhel after a spill for a slightly wider tyre (less air pressure) he was ok with less vibration.

I myself on the other full carbon hard tyre pressure, had no problems comfortable riding position (leaning slightly forward) loose but firm grip on bars (changing hand position regular top, bottom top of levers etc) and not at full leg stretch when peddling. also when coasting down hills I still spun the pedals although slowly to keep legs moving, and when hill climbing alternate in and out of the saddle. also you may find a difference if you adjust cleats or tension mine SPDSL have a 6 degree float whe as the other riders cleats were fixed SPD's

sorry for the epic ramble, but someone may find some of the content usefull basically dont have the seat to high, and dont grip the bars too tight for too long in the same position.

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